Memories of Talllinn, Estonia

Tallinn, Estonia

If you ask the average American for their opinion of Estonia, you will probably get a blank stare. Without direct flights from the U.S., American travelers do not often make it to Estonia. The few that do, find their way as one of many stops on a cruise destined for better-known destinations like Stockholm or Helsinki.

If history were to dictate geography lessons in school, people would be asking, “where is Finland?” and not “where is Estonia?” During its first republic Estonia’s economy was considerably more developed and growing at a faster rate than that of Finland. Due to 50 years of Soviet rule, things today are a little different, although Finland also played a role. Television broadcasts from Finland helped prevent communist propaganda from embedding itself too deeply in the Estonian consciousness. No wonder that when independence came, Estonians embraced the free market. Tallinn, home to nearly half of Estonia’s population, is the center of life and culture for the tiny nation of 1.4 million people. It also has a history dating back to the 14th century. The old town, with its well-preserved walls and towers, is considered the second largest “old town” in Europe behind Prague. Walking through the cobble stone streets, visitors quickly realize the richness of history all around. Through restoration efforts in the last 15 years, visitors can experience the colorful architecture styles ranging from Gothic to Baroque to Classicism. The history is not only preserved in the buildings but also in the people themselves and the language they speak. In addition to its culture, Tallinn provides all the comforts of a progressive young city with a vibrant nightlife. Bars and dance clubs are found in abundance and upscale restaurants serve well-presented meals by renowned chefs.

Estonia is known as the “Singing Nation” due to the fact that a good number of its traditions and folklore have been passed down through the generations by song. This was particularly evident in the “Singing Revolution” of 1991. There are several different versions of the story. With the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Baltic States all broke away around the same time. Latvia and Lithuania both had, though small, violent ends to Soviet control. Seeing that the Soviets were willing to open fire on the people, Estonians tried a different strategy. They called in thousands of families from the countryside with their children. In the park below the government buil-dings they filled the open space with the children. When the Soviet tanks came rolling into Tallinn’s old town a sea of singing children greeted them. As the story goes, the Russian tank drivers were so moved, they got out of their tanks and simply walked away without firing a shot. Estonia achieved independence without a fight, only a song. The Estonian National Opera (ENO) is the figurehead for the nation of song. Founded in 1906, it has been providing quality performances of classic opera, ballet, concerts, and other cultural events for nearly a century. Today it is run by Paul Himma, who joined in 1993 at a time when Estonians were more concerned with nation building. Today the opera entertains over 200,000 visitors a year. It hosts the National Ballet, the National Symphony and the National Opera. The theater itself has a character reflecting not only Estonia but also the Russian influence portrayed in the ceiling painting in the main theater. Traditionally opera was for royalty but Himma has ensured that “this is opera for the people, not royalty. It is very affordable for the public.” The prices reflect his statement. Because of its small stage size the ENO cannot compete with the major opera houses across the world, but the creative team uses this to its advantage with creative stage design and choreography. From three pie-shaped slabs they managed to create a wonderful performance of Boris Godunov (M. Mussorgsky). A major name in the Estonian performing arts is Director of the Ballet, Tiit Härm. A former dancer himself, he has breathed life back into Estonian ballet. One of his most famous productions has been his rendition of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. Despite the restrictions of a smaller stage, Härm has managed to stage one of the most well-known ballets, Swan Lake, and adapt it to conditions in Tallinn. The performance is stunning, from the adaptation itself, to the energy and creativity of the dancers and set designers, and the return to the original musical score. A trip to Tallinn is incomplete without experiencing a performance at the Estonian National Opera. Tiit Härm and Paul Himma have ensured that Estonia will always be the “Singing Nation.”

In addition to the music, it is the people of Estonia that make it such a magical place. Unlike most CIS and northern European countries, the Estonian people are full of kindness and possess a gentle disposition. You can expect to be greeted by a smile and "tere" when you arrive. In such a cold land, it is comforting to know there is enough warmth there to help you make it through the long, dark winters. This is the new Europe, and all those traveling to this side of the Atlantic should begin to familiarize themselves with these new countries.  The pics below are myself and Annie Gardiner with the President of Estonia, Arnold Ruutel in 2003. The other is with Johan Parts, Prime Minsiter of Estonia. The above article was published in the New York Daily June 29, 2003.