It strikes 10 in Blava town square; a laser beam bisects the early summer sky. A couple of Staropramens in el Diablo and I become part of the voyage to the underworld.
THE CREW:
Hans van Os - What’s the plan, Stan
Nick Norvell – Popeye
Karin Ohrablova – Moneypenny aka Ren and Stimpy
Nate Taylor – Cowboy
Natasha Cirovic – Sleeping Beauty
Serpil Kocabas – Turkish Delight
Sati Civelek – Turkish two-step
Peter Buerstedde – The Kraut
Bille Cuknev – Rainman
Sanja Gosnjak – Stan’s girlfriend
Capitan:
Ivan Oreb – Johnny Boy
The Ship:
S.S. GAJA (49 ft.)
DAY 1
July 30, 2005
After arriving from all corners of the known world, the crew and Capitan meet in the town of Marina, HR. It is here that the journey begins. Gilligan’s Island came to my mind right away…
It was a late start today! We finally got all on board and set for the journey. After a short, refreshing dip in the sea, we sat sail for Solta and Rogac around 4:30. Because of our late departure, we were greeted by a “full” port in Solta forcing us to moor in a smaller harbor around the corner. After mooring the boat we disembarked to search our new little home. The main restaurant was closed to our dismay, but we managed to find a pizzeria that was willing to feed a hungry bunch of refugees. Over several beers and some intercultural discoveries, we began to work out the best way to handle our expenses! This is where it gets fun!
- Cowboy
It was a warm evening, nay the restaurant was hotter than Moneypenny’s underwear. The temperature rose when having a heated debate over the fiscal and budgetary plan for the week. The hawks argued for “fuck it, spend it and share”, the doves for scrutinizing the account with an electron microscope. When it came to a vote on how to apportion the 6 Kuna bill for our garlic bread, the Senate vote was split 5-5 and the Kraut was in the unusual position of being able to take the moral high ground and argued for compromise. What’s the Plan Stan (Stan) argued for sharing everything except grog, and the assembled crew cried, “Yes, father!”
- Popeye
DAY 2
July 31, 2005
Today we woke to a fine sunny day. I took my shower in the ocean as I had learned while in the Virgin Islands to ensure the conservation of on board fresh water. Today we were to sail to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula (sorry I do not have the right letters on my computer for all the names). It was a short trip with calm seas, mostly under engine power. When we arrived in Vela Luka, we were greeted to a small version of Split’s ocean walk with a central building and a small but nicely laid out church and church yard; simple, yet sufficient. I spent the afternoon walking around having coffee and ice cream with the Turkish Twins. Later we were joined by Stan and the shopping army with the food for dinner. They willingly stole a shopping cart to return their loot to the boat. At night we were treated to chicken curry ala Stan. A few of us stayed up chatting while the rest decided to call it an early night.
The next morning I woke and began my search to find a place to bathe in the ocean. I found a small water taxi to take me across to a small hotel and dive shop where I was able to find fresh water and a “beach”. I discovered that FA soap does not work in salt water. If anyone knows anything about this, I would be interested in knowing why.
We soon set out for our next destination and today was the first day that we were able to put up our sails, to the great delight of Stan, Popeye and I!
- Cowboy
Stolen trolley has been brought back to the “port” whereas Stan and his girlfriend enjoyed swimming back home. Still everyone happy.
- Stan’s Girlfriend
DAY 3
August 1, 2005
Today we sailed to Korcula. This is by far the most beautiful city we have seen in Croatia. The trip there was quite pleasant, as there was little wind, we were able to put out ropes and drag behind the boat while drinking beer and goofing around. We were all playing in the sea and even brought in the big raft to rest on! It was a great sunny day in the Adriatic! Once we got into the channel between Korcula and Peljesac there was a wonderful wind that is constantly blowing. The channel was filled with the colorful sails of hundreds of small sail boats, windsurfers and kite surfers. It was here that we did our first tacking and technical sailing with significant speed. What a great day! We moored in the bay that is the home of our Capitan, Ivan.
Korcula is an old walled city that was founded at the time Troy fell to the Greeks. When approaching from the sea, the city is quite impressive with 4 major towers giving sufficient protection from an invading force. The tall church tower in the center made the city appear as if out of a movie. Korcula is purported to be the home of Marco Polo, the great adventurer who traveled from Europe to China.
After a quick trip into town we walked to dinner at Maslina and had two pasta dishes and a mix of fried fish. The small minnows were surprisingly good. Later that night we went into town and had drinks at a bar outside. We had a ball, met some attractive girls and even challenged another boat crew to a race the following day.
- Cowboy
Today we were drinking beer in the open sea. I improved my skills! Fantastic sailing through the Peyesar channel towards Korcula. I am back home though. Feels like being at home too. Great group of people on the great wooded island. All still very civilized.
- Stan’s Girlfriend
DAY 4
August 2, 2005
Today we spent the day in the town of Korcula. Walking around the city with Karin, Hans and Sanja, we had breakfast in a café on the wayward side of the city walls. I saw the home of Marco Polo, though did not enter. The city church and all the old buildings and streets reminded me a bit of Valetta in Malta in the way the city was laid out. In the form of a grid, it shows a good example of early city planning. The streets were laid in such a way to protect the citizens from the stronger wind from the channel while allowing the lighter, yet constant breeze from the other direction to blow through the streets keeping the city cool, a form of early air conditioning I suppose. Once I had my fill of exploring the city, I managed to find a nice lady to cut my hair, as I was starting to look like a wooly mammoth.
We departed Korcula and began our journey to Mljet, a national park south towards Dubrovnik. We arrived in Mljet in time for a quick bike ride to the salt lakes before having to get ready for dinner. The ride was uphill around the hills covering the bay area. From there it was a downhill race to the lakes! What a blast, though I must say I was not in as good of shape as I would have expected after spending the last 7 months puttering around Amsterdam on bike. Stopping short of circumnavigating the entire lake, Hans, Peter and I stopped near a small restaurant to swim and have a beer. I was waited on by the most unfriendly and hostile host. After briefly endangering his flowers with my bike, he promptly put me in my place. I managed to get a cold beer though and avoided and international incident.
We ate dinner with Guro at his restaurant, a friend of Ivan’s’. A seafood mix with local white wine made for a pleasant dinner. I introduced the other eight nationalities to the Coke Float, an American institution. Some took to it willingly while others hesitated on grounds of general suspicion. We were also treated to Rogacica, a homemade drink resembling a lighter and tastier Jagermeister. After dinner, the guitars were brought out and I played a little free jamming with one of the staff from the restaurant, music truly is universal! What a great time, though I must apologize to the listeners for some of the free jamming went awry as a result of consumption. Nick and I managed to find a pool table to keep us entertained after the rest had gone to the sheets.
- Cowboy
Decided to follow my roots and instinct on 40*C, so was unable to show happiness. But when it came to the “fucking” cycling through the park I opened my soul to the healthy environment. Result = got back for a dinner with the group.
- Stan’s Girlfriend
DAY 5
August 3, 2005
Mljet again. Today we rode bikes to St. Mary’s Church and the Benedictine Monastery on the island in Big Lake. Built in different stages from the 12th century to the 16th century, it is primarily reflective of Romanesque architecture. Nick, Karin and I got a late start, but nonetheless managed to make it to the lake before noon. Karin blazed off on her own to ride the circumference of the lake while Nick and I attempted to make the ferry from Mali Most to the island. Clouds came and cooled things off which made the day that much more pleasant. We ran into the Turkish girls and Sleeping Beauty at Mali Most and they joined us to the Monastery. Walked around the Monastery, tried to keep Nick from harassing the goats and mules and admired the interior of the church before heading back to shore. We returned to my favorite little stop, where my friendly waiter greeted me again with disgust. There we met Hans and Peter, enjoyed beer and a late lunch. We eventually met up there with the rest of the intrepid cyclists, some of whom ditched their bikes at the end of the road and forged the lake, storming the island amphibian style. The park was pleasant, with two salt water lakes, connected by a small channel and connected to the sea as well, making them brackish but still subject to tides.
Bad weather forced a second night in Mljet. After a nice long nap on the bow of the boat I played another game or two of pool with Nick. A boat moored along side us with similar aged crew from Switzerland, France and Croatia. That night Hans treated us to a BBQ on the dock, fish and pork were the choices, the Turkish Twins made a wonderful eggplant salad. After dinner we mingled with the Swiss Miss and her crew. I played guitar, drank too much and celebrated midnight and the arrival of my 27th birthday! Did I mention we had some drinks as well!? What a fun night, nearly 9 different nationalities all getting along, exchanging ideas and stories and all of them singing songs by Robert Earl Keen and Pat Green! HAPPY BIRTHDAY COWBOY!
- Cowboy
First and last lazy day, hurrah! Hans provided us with the grill and another great dinner. Had beer, wine, Rakija, rum, vodka and had a BALL!!
- Stan’s Girlfriend
DAY 6
August 4, 2005
My birthday! Today we left Mljet early to sail to Hvar. The storm came in making the sail to Hvar quite a trip! Large waves and 40 knot winds provided challenging and fun sailing conditions! We stopped in Korcula for water and food. Early on it was cold and wet but the weather cleared up some in the afternoon making our arrival into Hvar a pleasant one. Though the air had already cooled down a bit the water remained nice and warm. On the sail over, I was surprised with a b-day cake and a shirt with a note from all on board! A great day!
We moored in a small enclave past the main port of Hvar as it was already full of boats. With the determined mind of a birthday boy looking to celebrate, I began my campaign to find my way to Hvar. At first there was no way to hail a water taxi to pick us up so I hatched an ill-fated plan to make it to town. I looked at our charts and I looked at the hillside. I judged that I could see power lines, and where there are power lines, there must be a road nearby. In addition, according to the chart, the town was less than 3 km by foot away once we reached to top of the hill. So I had decided to call a taxi to meet us on the road near where we were moored. Dressed in my best, I commandeered our three man dingy with 4 people, Peter, Bille and Nick and we started to paddle our way zig zagging this way and that painfully closer and closer to shore. Into the wind, we were nearly there and nearly exhausted when Nick received a call from the taxi explaining that there was no road for him to pick us up on. Though crushed by this news I was happy to hear that the taxi driver had managed to find a water taxi to pick us up at the boat! Yes! With that good news we began our perilous journey back to the Gaja. Strange, I noticed that we were going into the wind BOTH directions! Frustrating. Eventually the water taxi arrived and took Hans, Sanja, Bille, Nick, Peter and I to Hvar. We disembarked from the taxi to find ourselves in front of the bar Carpe Diem! What a great find! We went right in, press passed the VIP area and had champagne and cocktails to celebrate my aging! Before we knew it, there was a line outside the bar of about 75 people waiting to get in. It appears Carpe Diem was THE place to be in Hvar! Movie stars and plenty of eye candy for all. What a night! Drinking, dancing and general decadence was abound. What a birthday! I could not have asked for a better group of folks to celebrate with!
- Cowboy
Doh, sailing again, but this time it was serious and dangerous with no possibility to step on land. We decided to celebrate Nate’s birthday again (the real one) so, ordered taxi boat from lovely Vele Greka to the town of Hvar. Well done Nick!
- Stan’s Girlfriend
DAY 7
August 5, 2005
Today was the last day of sailing. The seas were rough and many got seasick including a surprised narrator. After a short nap below deck, I emerged to relieve myself from the juice I had enjoyed an hour earlier. We sailed back to Marina. When we arrived, we got ready for dinner and drove into Trogir for dinner. In town there was a celebration for the end of the war with a large concert going on in the main square. I was exhausted and proceeded to nearly fall asleep at the dinner table. But all in all, my exhaustion was from a GREAT adventure! I would not trade it for anything!
FUCKING SAILING, by Turkish Delight:
No way to go to Hvar. No time, no taxi boat, waves…Three girls were disappointed. But they had to go to the sea to sail. Here I am sailing through the Adriatic with a bunch of different guys from different nationalities. How they found each other, nobody knows. But they had one big reason, to discover the Adriatic, have fun, and eat nicely. They had fun, discovered the Adriatic though missed the boat on the food. Now we have experienced how sailors live in very hard conditions. Their bathrooms are difficult and small like their beds. All day they have to fight with the waves and the elements. All the girls were screaming from the waves and did not want to end up in them. Between being seasick and the sense of adventure they tried to survive. Feeling a bit tired and relaxed the trip should come to an end tomorrow. They were happy and sad. Like all the time on the trip, nice mixed feelings and challenges. We shall see each other in other seas. A few will be on the boat and the rest on the beach, lying, holding hands with their partners, drinking cocktails…
Nice to meet you all.
- Turkish Delight
Great day of sailing today. Too bad we are on our way back to Marina to return the boat. But then, 4 out of ten of us having thrown up during the wild ride this morning it will also be good to set foot on the mainland again. Winds are still strong, the marina asks us to come back and so it’s going to be another bumpy adrenaline ride! Last day together today. Funny group really. Nine nationalities is of course, an interesting concept to start with. I think it went well though. Living apart together, everyone doing his/her own thing and with a loose daily planning we had some flexibility to building personal wishes like shopping, sightseeing, disco. In any case, for me, the best moment was the beautiful smooth ride the second or third day when we let ourselves drag behind the boat. 35 degrees, gentle wind and no rush to go anywhere or do anything else than soak up the sunshine and relax!
All in all, a great week. Got to know new people, Nick, Nate, Sati and got to know the others better than I already did. We managed to see a lot of beautiful places along the Croatian coast with our floating hotel. We did all the holiday things like going for a drink, good food, singing along, BBQ, cycling and more. Great holiday! Thanks for the company!
- What’s the plan, Stan
We ran out of money. Kitty is empty so, time to go home L. Still some 2 hours of sailing left to Marina followed by “Bura” winds. Hey, will see what’s going to happen…All went well!!!! Thank you all!
- Stan's Girlfriend
DAY 8
August 6, 2005
Today, Nick and I headed back to Zagreb. We stopped off in the national park on the way and camped out. There we recapped the journey and explored the future paths our lives were about to take! It was pleasant hanging out by our tent that night with our prayer candle (only light I could find) and telling jokes and swapping stories! That night we were rained on but managed to break camp and make it to the airport with time to spare. I will leave out my unpleasant experience at the airport in Paris, as that would take a whole book to explain!
This concludes the journey! What a memory!
I invite those of you on the trip to continue to add your comments!
Estonia is known as the “Singing Nation” due to the fact that a good number of its traditions and folklore have been passed down through the generations by song. This was particularly evident in the “Singing Revolution” of 1991. There are several different versions of the story. With the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Baltic States all broke away around the same time. Latvia and Lithuania both had, though small, violent ends to Soviet control. Seeing that the Soviets were willing to open fire on the people, Estonians tried a different strategy. They called in thousands of families from the countryside with their children. In the park below the government buil-dings they filled the open space with the children. When the Soviet tanks came rolling into Tallinn’s old town a sea of singing children greeted them. As the story goes, the Russian tank drivers were so moved, they got out of their tanks and simply walked away without firing a shot. Estonia achieved independence without a fight, only a song. The Estonian National Opera (ENO) is the figurehead for the nation of song. Founded in 1906, it has been providing quality performances of classic opera, ballet, concerts, and other cultural events for nearly a century. Today it is run by Paul Himma, who joined in 1993 at a time when Estonians were more concerned with nation building. Today the opera entertains over 200,000 visitors a year. It hosts the National Ballet, the National Symphony and the National Opera. The theater itself has a character reflecting not only Estonia but also the Russian influence portrayed in the ceiling painting in the main theater. Traditionally opera was for royalty but Himma has ensured that “this is opera for the people, not royalty. It is very affordable for the public.” The prices reflect his statement. Because of its small stage size the ENO cannot compete with the major opera houses across the world, but the creative team uses this to its advantage with creative stage design and choreography. From three pie-shaped slabs they managed to create a wonderful performance of Boris Godunov (M. Mussorgsky). A major name in the Estonian performing arts is Director of the Ballet, Tiit Härm. A former dancer himself, he has breathed life back into Estonian ballet. One of his most famous productions has been his rendition of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. Despite the restrictions of a smaller stage, Härm has managed to stage one of the most well-known ballets, Swan Lake, and adapt it to conditions in Tallinn. The performance is stunning, from the adaptation itself, to the energy and creativity of the dancers and set designers, and the return to the original musical score. A trip to Tallinn is incomplete without experiencing a performance at the Estonian National Opera. Tiit Härm and Paul Himma have ensured that Estonia will always be the “Singing Nation.”
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